Friday 29 September 2017

Part 18 Last Days in Peru, Lima, Arequipa, Puno, early Sep 17

Part 18 Last Days in Peru


Day 165 To Barranca

We really enjoyed our time in Huaraz and neighboring Huascaran National Park with its unspoiled alpine beauty. The city has a relaxed feel, mixing traditional ways with modern times. There is much infrastructure for adventure tourism. Under everything lies a current of energy associated with the hikers and climbers who are attracted to the park that contains 40 peaks over 6,000 meters in height.

Isabelle’s cough/cold slowly improved. She felt ready to move on. We began a long, slow climb immediately after leaving Huaraz, which lies at 3,000 meters, heading upstream along the Santa valley. The pass across Cordillera Negro, at 4,200 m, marked the beginning of a long descent towards sea level and the Pan Am highway to Lima. The road was mostly good, with little traffic, even though this was the favored route to Lima.

Hot peppers growing in the irrigated desert beside the road to Caral.


We rode to the archeological site at the Sacred City of Caral, in the Supe valley, near the coastal city of Barranca. Caral is the most ancient city of the Americas. Twenty-five kilometers of the road leading to it were rough going after the Pan Am and the final 5 were over dirt, mud and sand. The ruins were fascinating and excavation work was clearly on-going.

We paid the entrance fee and hired our mandatory guide, named Luis, who turned out to be fantastic. Our initial reticence at hiring a non-English speaking guide evaporated almost immediately as Luis walked us through the site. He was knowledgeable and immediately recognized our limited Spanish. He adjusted the speed and complexity of his descriptions; in other words, he dumbed everything down!

Luis, our patient "Guia"


He explained how the city was inhabited between the 26th and 20th centuries BCE by the Chico Norte civilization. A quipu, a kind of abacus using knots tied in coloured threads, was found there, proving its use to be much older than was previously thought. The quipo was perfected by the Incas in the 15th century. Later versions of it recorded historical facts along with numeric data, a kind of record keeping without “literacy”.

The seat of Government


The pyramids at Caral were used for religious purposes and contained meeting and ceremonial rooms. A new layer of stone was added to a pyramid by each successive ruler, thereby causing the pyramids to grow outward and upward from within. Bags were made from natural fibers and contained the rough bits of rock that were used as foundations for the stone structures. The flexibility afforded by the use of the bags offered a measure of earthquake resistance.

A ring of pyramids defines the city limits.


Social rank was determined by levels of knowledge. The priests’ residences were closest to the spread-out ring of temple pyramids. Middle classes lived within the encircled compound of the city, lower classes without. Two to three thousand people typically resided within the city.

Uncovering the ruins is a huge job.


There have been no traces of warfare found at Caral. The lack of battlements, weapons or mutilated human remains suggest a peaceful society based on commerce, pleasure and the concept of reciprocity. One temple contained 32 flutes made of condor and pelican bones and 37 cornets made of llama bones.

We stayed the night in Barranca at the same, “Motel Sahara” we had used seven weeks earlier on our way to Lima to meet our daughter Gabi. It was pleasant to catch up with our host, Adrianna, her grandson named Rodrigo, and to meet her American husband John. Friendly Rottweiler, Mustafa was still his goofy self.


Day 166 Lima, at Roberto’s again

It feels like we are home again after many weeks, the place looks just the same and all our camping gear is where we stored it. I went through it all and managed to trim 5 kg that went straight to the garbage. After settling in we went out to buy some groceries. People are happier here than in the coastal desert.


Day 167

Traffic, loud and aggressive – Lima style! I rode my moto for 2 ½ hours through Lima to Touratech Peru to get new tires mounted, then over to BMW Motorrad. I hoped to be able to drop off the bike for servicing the next day. A warm greeting from the service manager and coffee began the visit. He asked me how I planned to get home and I said by cab. I removed the soft baggage from the bike’s tank area to let the mechanic get at things more easily. After speaking with the service manager about also bringing Isa’s bike in tomorrow I was escorted to the waiting, loaded (with my tank bags) and paid-up cab to take me home.

My old tires after 20,000 km. I had planned for them to last only 10. The front has at least another 10 left in it but it's time for more aggressive tires for Bolivia.


Reconditioned and wearing new shoes


That evening we had dinner with a fellow moto-traveler, Phil Bernini, near Parque Kennedy in Miraflores. We had met Phil on board the Stahlratte during our crossing of the Darien Gap and had kept in touch. Phil injured his knee shortly after the cruise on the Stahlratte and reluctantly shipped his moto home to Switzerland. He had been stuck in the heat of northern Colombia, unable to ride, for months. He had come to Lima to buy a van to continue his voyage. It was great to catch up with him and hopefully our paths will cross again soon as he is also heading south toward Ushuaia.

 It's fun to meet other travelers, these guys are from Brazil

Father and daughter two up on a GS from Ecuador.




Day 168

Isa and I rode two up on her bike through Lima traffic for 2 hours to the BMW dealership. It was insane. In one of many crazy episodes we were almost taken out by a car that seemed to come out of nowhere from behind, to pass us on the right. My right-turn signal light had been flashing for a while and my brake lights were on too as I approached the right turn from the right lane, beside the parked cars. I heard a short bit of wet-road skidding from behind after I gently (because of slippery conditions) initiated the turn. Committed to the corner, I followed through. A long, “How dare you?!” beep from the offended motorist finished off the encounter.

We waited then walked across the street (another adventure!) for lunch while the mechanics were finishing up with the bikes. Just like at the dealership in Medellin, the price for two major tune-ups was very reasonable. We put a new, more aggressive front tire on Isabelle’s moto and both bikes were ready for the sand and mud we would surely encounter in Bolivia.

Isabelle's "Wilda" is ready to receive some TLC at the dealership.


We also had a smaller (by one tooth) front chain sprocket installed. This lowers the ratios of each of her 6 gears a little bit. The increase in torque should help her to accelerate past slow movers but it’s the lowered first gear that will be especially useful in off-road conditions. Her first gear had been far too tall with the old sprocket.

Motos refreshed, clean and loaded for the road outside Roberto's place in Lima


We got home, happily without incident and worked on packing the bikes for the rest of the day. We stayed an extra day in Lima. Isabelle was still sick and wanted to rest up a bit.


Day 169

We had a slow start to the day but in the afternoon walked 14k in search of a new camera.  We decided not to buy one since the prices were so high and our phone’s camera works pretty well. Once home, I tried the old camera and it miraculously came back to life!


Day 170 Lima to Ica

Motorbikes aren’t allowed on the highways that run through Lima, except the Pan Am highway. There was no good way to get to it and we cannot filter through traffic with our big side cases. We waited until 10:30 to allow traffic to thin out a little. Using Google maps on the phone, we improvised our way around construction sites and one-way streets the phone didn’t know about. We rode onto the Pan Am highway after an hour and it took another half hour to get out of the city. No one was hurt in the process.

The coastal highway cut into the cliffs in southern Peru


We rode down the coastal desert to Ica, sometimes correcting for strong cross-winds by leaning the bikes on crazy angles. It was cold. Our heated hand grips and electric jackets were switched on. We wore balaclavas. Sand the colour of snow swept and danced across the highway in waves. Drifts built up as the job of clearing them got ahead of the road machines. Our new tires worked well as we rode through the edges of the drifts we couldn’t avoid. The whole scene looked and felt a bit like moving down a highway at home in February, only a little warmer.


Day 171 Ica to Atico District

A big day of riding began with an early start. The road was in good shape for 400 k. We rode through a bit of a sandstorm that lasted for an hour. Again, we encountered strong winds and drifting sand. We literally kept our mouths shut inside our helmets. An open mouth, even to talk briefly, meant getting sand in your teeth. We stayed in a rough little town in an OK hotel with an ocean view for a good price. The staff were very pleasant.

Our ocean view, the hotel was spic and span clean inside. The chickens got us up in time for an early start.



Day 172 Arequipa

The next day began with crossing the site were the big derrumbe (landslide) had closed the Pan Am for 2 weeks, stranding many people. We had passed over the repaired site seven weeks earlier. It still had workers present and was not yet re-paved. Road work further on prevented us from turning inland toward Arequipa. The map showed us that a new highway continued down the coast and connected with another, giving access inland and eventually to Arequipa. Not knowing the condition of the road or even if it was paved we continued southward. It turned out to be a fantastic new road with a near perfect, paved surface. It passed through a rocky area without towns but with much mining, which explained its existence. There wasn’t a sand drift in sight as we rocketed down the coast to connect with the other road leading toward Arequipa.

Long stretches of untouched coastline

Occasionally there are signs of human activity

After settling in, we walked downtown to the beautiful plaza that is a UNESCO World heritage sight. A DJ was pounding out the tunes to the evening crowd of tourists. Coffee and dessert in pleasant evening air were followed by the long walk home. We enjoyed our night at Alejandro’s B&B, the same place as last time.


Day 173 Puno on Lake Titicaca, at 3800 m (12,300 ft) above sea level

Leaving Arequipa


Scenes from the altiplano averaging 4400 meters altitude:
 Well above the tree line
 You can see for great distances
 Water is scarce
 Flamingos are coloured pink by their diet
It's not cold enough to freeze what water there is. 
 Interesting rock structures jump up at the sky, even from this altitude.
Free rider


It has been another long and tiring, 300-kilometer day. Great scenery was everywhere again. We enjoyed it for the second time, having been here seven weeks before. We are in the same hostel as before, this will be the last repeat. We arrived in a four-degree rainstorm, the first rain we have seen in two and a half months. Trip planning brought us to the high Andes at the beginning of the dry season.

The funky little parking lot was still there. It had a steep climb from the street on a surface of fine, red dirt. The parking entrance now featured a small stream flowing down into the street. It would be a steep, red-mud climb this time. There was a little plateau about one storey up that was big enough for two large adventure bikes. Momentum rather than traction got the job done.  I accelerated hard across the single lane of street cobbles below before going through the gate and into the muddy climb. It worked but backing down the narrow, muddy lane in a few days would be challenging. I hoped for dry weather.

Day 174 Puno

Today we took a tour on Lake Titicaca that included visiting the Aymara speaking people at Uros and the Quechuan speakers on Taquile Island. Uros came first and was just a 30-minute cruise away. The Aymara speakers there live on floating reed islands. There are 92 islands, each with two to five, but sometimes more, families living on them. Nelson was our host on one of the islands. After welcoming us, he and his father piloted our group on two large reed boats. They poled expertly and brought us into the nearby reeds to show us how the reeds are cut, then used to build the islands and living structures.

 Nelson
 Freshly cut reed stalks
Covering a root foundation


It’s the roots that create floatation. They are cork-like and are very buoyant. Roots are collected and joined together to make the foundation of a new island. The reed stalks are cut and laid across the roots to create the floor of the island. Reed stalks are also woven to make solid structures. A modern touch is the addition of solar panels to collect electricity. This eliminates the previous and dangerous use of candles.

Old ways meet new ones:
 Solar panels provided by the government
Tour boat tied to reed island


The islands and reed structures:





We continued our cruise to Taquile Island were Quechuan speakers lived. The lake is a boundary between the two languages. The people on this large (solid) island are world famous for the hand weaving and knitted products. UNESCO recognized that by designating them as a cultural site. Their work is fine, precise and very beautiful.

 Traditional structure on Taquile Island
 Hill-top view
 Weaving and knitting alpaca wool
Agriculture on the island


Tomorrow we head further south, along the shores of Lake Titicaca, to cross into Bolivia. We have spent more than two months in Peru. In that time, and alongside the wonderful geography and adventure, we have come to understand the local value of money and fair prices for things, how to survive in urban traffic, the accents and some local idioms in Spanish, and a little about the people. Active archeological sites are ubiquitous and well visited. This shows us that Peruvians are inquisitive about their history, one that pre-dates the Egyptians.

Puno harbor



We have interacted with urban and with rural people, and passed through remote places. We have seen with our own eyes the magnitude of the gap between the privileged and the poor. We have seen and shared many smiles. We have come to see that projecting an expectation of need for material things is unfair. We have mostly seen good and honest people loving their families, participating in cultural and community practices, and finding ways to enjoy their lives. 


The Quechuan code of ethics has three parts: do not lie, do not steal, do not be lazy.
   

Friday 8 September 2017

Part 17 Ruta de las Incas, Hiking in Huascaran Park, from Huaraz, Peru late Aug 17

Part 17 Cordillera Blanca, Peru


Day 152 Huallanca

“Routa de las Incas” (3N) cuts to the west below Parque Nacional Huascaran before turning northward again. We had met a Swiss couple at the hostel in Cusco. They were riding pedal bikes and had told us about a scenic ride across the southern end of the park. It was a short cut from Ruta de las Incas in distance but not in time. The route took you to almost 5,000 m elevation and gave you the chance to visit Pastoruri glacier. It is one of the few glaciers that is accessible by road in the tropics. The Swiss couple had wild camped in the park but we planned to get through the park and to Huaraz City in one day.


Ruta de las Incas passes through the village of Huallanca. The first hour or more west of Huanuco gave us a lot of impatient traffic during its 25 kilometers. The combination of road conditions and aggressive drivers unfortunately raised Isabelle’s stress levels a bit. The traffic did eventually become thinner and we became more accustomed to the pace and road conditions. We began to enjoy the ride more. 

Getting more comfortable with the road


The rest was a beautiful but dusty ride that Isabelle handled well. Experience gained on the cordillera route has given her a new self-confidence. She has had lots of formal training and experience, on road and off, and knows what to do in most challenging situations. Body positioning and weight transfer are beginning to happen for her through muscle memory now, not through conscious thought. Tomorrow’s tests would prove to be at just the right level to bring her to a point of readiness for riding in Bolivia.

Riding into a Quechuan village


We encountered a construction road block that lasted 45 minutes. We got off the motos and started to mix with everyone else enjoying the sunshine out of their cars. An enterprising indigenous lady and her grandchild came along with some bread based snacks and we bought some. We had great fun with the other motorists who were quite interested in our travel story. They were stunned to learn that we hadn’t shipped the bikes but in fact had ridden them from Canada. Things finished with numerous cell phone photos of our new friends on or near the bikes.

Morning view from the road block


Santa Rosa de Lima celebrations were in full swing with a couple of days to go before the actual day. We passed through villages with parades that featured bands, dignitaries and dancers. Among the crowds in each village were a few unsteady, bottle hoisting revelers cheering things along – even cheering for us as we putt-putted past!

"It's OK, I'm with the band!"


We found a nice little hotel in Huallanca. We remember it as a clean place with friendly people, especially the children. They seemed free of the usual wariness of strange “gringos”. We went for an evening walk through the village, visiting both plazas and the bull fighting ring. Groups of children who were playing in the quiet streets routinely greeted us, smiling and practicing the English they had learned in school.

The road to Huallanca




Day 153 Pastoruri Glacier in Huascaran Nt’l Pk.



The highway out of town was a good quality paved but narrow mountain road. It led us to the turn-off into Huascaran park. Isabelle emerged from the next 120 kilometers of mountain dirt road, a new rider. The Swiss couple back in Cusco described the first part of the road after the turn-off as “rough but it gets better”. They were right about the “rough” part. Steep climbs, potholes, loose stuff, tight switchbacks, derrumbes (landslides) to climb over and potential “death plunges” were everywhere. Four-wheel drive with lots of ground clearance is required for non-motorcycles on this challenging but spectacular route through the park.

The turn-off into the park


Surprisingly, we became comfortable with it and began to enjoy the scenery. We were thrilled to see but failed to photograph a wild fox in the harsh, bare highlands. We also saw a few sheep and one lamb, only a few days old. The scenery was stunning, the road was eventually the only evidence of humans. This wonderfully preserved natural setting took our breath away, figuratively and literally as we climbed past 4,500 meters.

Just inside the park, it's still early


We arrived at the parking lot at Pastoruri Glacier at 10:30 am. The lot is at 4,700 meters; from there you walk…or…you can ride a horse. We paid 15 Soles to ride up to 4,900 m just for the fun of it. Humans and not horses continued higher from there. The concrete path from there had steps and was easy going, except for the effects of altitude. We slowly plodded our way to the foot of the glacier at 5,240 m (17,192 ft). This alpine ice sheet is technically no longer a glacier because it is in a consistent state of recession.

Pastoruri Glacier at 5,240 m elevation


We bought soup and snacks from a Quechuan speaking woman who had set up shop in the frigid huts beside the parking lot. She gouged us a bit on the price but it still felt good to be putting money directly in the hands of local people. The horses had been a bargain. The ride westward to the paved highway outside the park was equally thrilling. It was rough and we took it slowly.

Rock formations within the park:






Along the way, we had the great fortune to see some Puya Raimondi plants in the Carpa Valley. They look like mutated giant cacti. They are actually the largest member of the bromeliad family (a relative of the pineapple) and can only be found in a few isolated places in the Andes. They live in a very narrow altitude band and require specific soil and climate conditions. The same forces that are causing the eventual destruction of the Pastoruri Glacier are at play with the Puya Raimondi. It is estimated that they will continue to exist in the park for 20 to 30 more years. They may disappear after that as the climate in that part of the park continues to change.

Riding inside the park:







Outside the park the paved road wound through the Rio Santa valley northward for 30 km toward the small city of Huaraz. We found a great hostel, “Hatun Wasi” at a great price. It is clean and wide open with indoor parking, a kitchen, a free breakfast and three large common areas. We are very comfortable here and are just a 10-minute walk from the action around the Plaza de Armas in this climbing and trekking hub.

Puya Raimondi plants in the Carpa Valley:




The altitude here is 3,000 m and people typically spend a few days getting acclimatized before heading into the park for their adventures. The park boasts more than 40 peaks above 6,000 m and mountaineers come from all over the world to climb in the second highest mountain range, next to the Himalayas.



Day 154 – 156

During these few days we researched, signed up and waited for a fully supported four-day “Santa Cruz Trek”. There would be a group of eight trekkers, a mountain guide and a donkey driver. He would also handle the emergency evacuation horse. Camping gear, kitchen and dining tents, along with our luggage would be carried by the donkeys. We would only need to carry a day pack with rain suits, water and snacks. It was very exciting, it was our reason for coming to Huaraz.

Park scene


We got to know Huaraz a little as we waited. The market area is huge for a such a small city. It occupies numerous blocks, north and eastward. Visiting it occupied a big piece of one day. Each street is themed; for example, carnecerias (butchers) with chickens, sides of beef and pig halves hanging in display for passers by. Clothing repair establishments agglomerate as do hairdressers and cell phone vendors. Indigenous street vendors claim a piece of sidewalk and spread out their herbs, vegetables or woven products.

Park scene


Huaraz is an eventful place by day, even more busy in the evenings. It has a population of 120,000 and lies in a broad valley cut by the Santa River. The valley separates two parallel mountain ranges that are over two hundred kilomoeters long, the Cordilleras Negra and Blanca. There is evidence of human activity in the region dating back 10,000 years to the time of the Chavin culture. Recuay, Wari and Inca cultures were followed by the Spanish conquests. In 1970, 90% of the city was destroyed by an earthquake and the resulting landslides. The city’s water reservoir ruptured and flash flooded the northern end of the city. 25,000 people lost their lives. In 1996 a new Barrik Gold (Canadian) mine brought many jobs. Tourism, trekking and climbing are also major sources of revenue.

Park scene


Parque Nacional Huascaran is a UNESCO Nature World Heritage Site and Mount Huascaran is the highest mountain in the tropics. The park protects a large area of the Cordillera Blanca.
Cordillera Negra, on the west side of the valley, is extremely dry. The lack of precipitation on this high mountain range results in no accumulation of snow or alpine glaciers, hence the name Negra. Cordillera Blanca faces the Amazon basin to the east. It is bombarded with humid eastern winds that are driven upwards by the towering giants. The humid air cools and drops its load of moisture in the form of rain on the eastern slopes of Cordillera Blanca and as snow on the mountain tops.


Day 157-160 Santa Cruz Trek

The 4X4 passenger van picked us up from the hotel at 6 am and we headed down the Santa valley towards the town of Yungay. Here we turned east, into the park. A twisting and rough mountain road brought us up and up to Vaqueria, in the Rio Huarapampa valley. We hiked for five hours further up the steep valley to the Paria campsite at 3850 m elevation. We were all quite tired when we arrived but were reassured in the knowledge that it had been a strengthening day for each of us.

Lago Llanganuco, as seen on the drive into the park


Our group was comprised of Lena (German), Thea (Singaporean), Niv (Isreali), Katy (Peruvian), Laura (Australian) and Nick (Australian) plus two more seasoned Canadians. Our guide was named Janina and our donkey driver, Senor Lucio. Our little band of trekkers was very youthful with two notable exceptions. Those two managed to keep up with the young bloods rather well on the trails. Their secret? – live high up in the mountains for three months before attempting such foolishness!

Two fresh faces ready to start

Senor Lucio and his "burros" 

Our crew, Senor Lucio and Janina ready the horse


The next day we rose with the sun and ate a spartan breakfast of coffee and two small buns with jam. After each of us was issued our bagged lunch we set of for higher places. Our hike began with four hours of tough ascent to Punta Union pass, at 4,750 m elevation. On the way, we looked across at snow-capped Chacraraiu (6,096 m) and Piramide (5,800 m). The trail was well built and the stone staircases relatively easy to climb. It was the thin air that took its toll. Heavy feet slowly carried white faces displaying traces of discouragement and fatigue up and over the pass. There was much joy and picture taking at the summit of the trail.

Climbing higher


We entered the Santa Cruz watershed and began our three-hour descent. We made camp in an open plain at 4,200 m. Dinner was hot and nourishing. We were in bed before 8 and snoring soon after.

Sure-footed beasts


The next day we were up again at dawn, ate the same spartan breakfast and hit the trail. The bagged lunches were pretty good, at least. We hiked downward for six hours on loose surfaces. The lack of traction was tiring and we were quite fatigued when we reached our campsite after Ichiccocha Lake, at 3,400 m. Senior Lucio packed and prepared the animals each morning after we left. He passed us two hours later, encouraging the animals forward. He was unbelievably quick. Only Nick, the running rock hopper was quicker.

Made it!


Most of the others did the optional hike of another hour and a half each way to see a nearby lake but Isabelle and I had a well earned snooze in the relative warmth of the afternoon at lower elevation. During that time, Senior Lucio got busy with his fishing rod. We all ate crispy trout with our dinner that night. Thank you, Senor Lucio!

Looking down the Santa Cruz valley


The next morning, our spartan breakfast was improved with the addition of a hard-boiled egg. We hiked the final two hours to Cachapampa village where we ate our bagged lunch. It was still good. Our van took us down the windy, death plunge lined mountain road to the village of Caraz, in the Santa valley. We took the paved road from there for three hours back to Huaraz.

A cathedral, complete with Romanesque buttresses!


It had been a great four days filled with personal challenges, rapid gains in strength and endurance and fun interactions with quick minded, able bodied young people. Mostly though it was the wonderful, unspoiled scenery that is only accessible on foot that impressed us.

Lunchspot

Second night

Alpine lake scene

Sure footed, even descending over loose ground

Rio Santa Cruz

Tributary to Rio Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz valley

First sighting of civilization in four days



Day 161 Canon del Pato and the rest of the Santa River Valley

Isabelle came down with the rotten cold I was just getting over. It began for her on the last day of the hike. She decided to take a couple of bed-rest days and encouraged me to ride through Canon Del Pato and along the Santa canyon by myself. It would take two days.

Canon del Pato (Duck Canyon)


Huaraz sits on the upper Rio Santa, between the parallel cordilleras Blanca and Negro. Run-off from Cordillera Blanca feeds the Santa River. Canon del Pato was cut by the Santa River where the two cordilleras meet, about 80 kilometers north of Huaraz. These waters then turn left and flow down 2,500 m over 120 more kilometers to the important food growing region of the Santa Delta. The broad lowlands of the delta are far enough inland to escape the frigid winds coming off the Pacific and to provide excellent growing conditions.

Santa River tributary, rode through spray and stream before photo


Expanses of crops, planted 12 months a year, characterize the huge inland delta that is surrounded by desert. Intricate aqueduct systems ensure that each drop of water from the Santa is used effectively. Rio Santa is also a provider of hydro-electric power. Steep canyon walls provide excellent dam locations and massively reduce the resultant flooding. Penstocks bored through the rock walls bring high pressure water to the turbines far below. There is evidence of mining activity, past and present, throughout the valley. Numerous “ghost towns” can be seen on the northern bank. The railway that supplied them was abandoned long ago.

Ghost town, one of many after the railway disappeared


Strong winds racing inland from the Pacific characterize the Santa valley upstream of the delta. The steep and narrow canyon walls focus the air coming in from the wide delta and create a “venturi effect” of fast moving compressed air within them. The motorcycle was pushed left and right on the narrow and rugged road. Thin bailey bridges were completely exposed to the gusting cross-winds that pushed the bike in waves toward the steelwork at the sides.

Irrigation on the delta: note the rice fields backed by non-irrigated, natural desert.


It was an interesting and exciting ride. The almost deserted road was single lane, rugged and slow. The harsh beauty of the bone-dry canyon was contrasted by the tumbling and frothing of life giving water at its base.



Day 162 Santa and back to Huaraz

The town of Santa sits on the delta of the river of the same name, near the Pacific Ocean. The Pan-American highway runs north/south through town. A neat and clean Plaza de Armas is surrounded by tidy streets with modern buildings. Hip looking people in t-shirts, shorts and sandals scurry about or dally with youngsters in tow. A solid middle class was evident.

Riding south along the Pan American was quick and fun. The bike hasn’t used the teeth of sixth gear in many weeks. Rocketing along through the dunes that are sometimes hundreds of meters high and zipping around slow-moving trucks was exhilarating. It wasn’t long before I reached the left turn onto “highway” 14, up the Rio Sechin delta.

The road was rough from the start, third gear territory at best. This got worse and turned into 25 kilometers of unmarked, unmanned and ragged construction (destruction?) detours. It was as if the gravel loops around obstacles were now permanent parts of the road. Conditions were easy for the bike and now I was zipping past the occasional slow-moving car. There were no trucks, buses or much of anything on this arid, four-wheeled vehicle unfriendly stretch., not a building in sight.

Inca trail into the Santa valley


The road became good just as the climb began, nearly 5,000 meters to the top of Cordillera Negra. What a twisty and fun ride punctuated by Quechuan farming villages it was, past the tree line and up to the frigid highlands! The viewpoint above the Santa valley, that lay 2,000 m below, revealed a stunning expanse featuring Huaraz city framed from behind by Cordillera Blanca.

Cordillera Blanca as backdrop to Huaraz City in the Santa valley



I ventured off the road for the photo above. The rapid climb to great heights had caused my 1.5L Nalgene water bottle to blow its lid inside the panier. Clean up was a small price to pay for two days of excellent riding in Peru!

Part 43 - Situation: Stuck in Spain, Dilemma: Deadline in Dublin

Situation: Stuck in Spain, Dilemma: Deadline in Dublin All sailings for the week to Ireland, where I planned to store my motorcycle, w...