Part 17 Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Day 152
Huallanca
“Routa de
las Incas” (3N) cuts to the west below Parque Nacional Huascaran before turning
northward again. We had met a Swiss couple at the hostel in Cusco. They were
riding pedal bikes and had told us about a scenic ride across the southern end
of the park. It was a short cut from Ruta de las Incas in distance but not in
time. The route took you to almost 5,000 m elevation and gave you the chance to
visit Pastoruri glacier. It is one of the few glaciers that is accessible by
road in the tropics. The Swiss couple had wild camped in the park but we
planned to get through the park and to Huaraz City in one day.
Ruta de
las Incas passes through the village of Huallanca. The first hour or more west
of Huanuco gave us a lot of impatient traffic during its 25 kilometers. The
combination of road conditions and aggressive drivers unfortunately raised
Isabelle’s stress levels a bit. The traffic did eventually become thinner and
we became more accustomed to the pace and road conditions. We began to enjoy
the ride more.
Getting more comfortable with the road
The rest was a beautiful but dusty ride that Isabelle handled well. Experience gained on the cordillera route has given her a new self-confidence. She has had lots of formal training and experience, on road and off, and knows what to do in most challenging situations. Body positioning and weight transfer are beginning to happen for her through muscle memory now, not through conscious thought. Tomorrow’s tests would prove to be at just the right level to bring her to a point of readiness for riding in Bolivia.
Riding into a Quechuan village
We encountered a construction road block that lasted 45 minutes. We got off the motos and started to mix with everyone else enjoying the sunshine out of their cars. An enterprising indigenous lady and her grandchild came along with some bread based snacks and we bought some. We had great fun with the other motorists who were quite interested in our travel story. They were stunned to learn that we hadn’t shipped the bikes but in fact had ridden them from Canada. Things finished with numerous cell phone photos of our new friends on or near the bikes.
Morning view from the road block
Santa
Rosa de Lima celebrations were in full swing with a couple of days to go before
the actual day. We passed through villages with parades that featured bands,
dignitaries and dancers. Among the crowds in each village were a few unsteady, bottle
hoisting revelers cheering things along – even cheering for us as we
putt-putted past!
"It's OK, I'm with the band!"
We found
a nice little hotel in Huallanca. We remember it as a clean place with friendly
people, especially the children. They seemed free of the usual wariness of
strange “gringos”. We went for an evening walk through the village, visiting
both plazas and the bull fighting ring. Groups of children who were playing in
the quiet streets routinely greeted us, smiling and practicing the English they
had learned in school.
The road to Huallanca
Day 153
Pastoruri Glacier in Huascaran Nt’l Pk.
The
highway out of town was a good quality paved but narrow mountain road. It led
us to the turn-off into Huascaran park. Isabelle emerged from the next 120
kilometers of mountain dirt road, a new rider. The Swiss couple back in Cusco
described the first part of the road after the turn-off as “rough but it gets
better”. They were right about the “rough” part. Steep climbs, potholes, loose
stuff, tight switchbacks, derrumbes (landslides) to climb over and potential “death
plunges” were everywhere. Four-wheel drive with lots of ground clearance is
required for non-motorcycles on this challenging but spectacular route through
the park.
The turn-off into the park
Surprisingly,
we became comfortable with it and began to enjoy the scenery. We were thrilled to
see but failed to photograph a wild fox in the harsh, bare highlands. We also
saw a few sheep and one lamb, only a few days old. The scenery was stunning, the
road was eventually the only evidence of humans. This wonderfully preserved
natural setting took our breath away, figuratively and literally as we climbed
past 4,500 meters.
Just inside the park, it's still early
We
arrived at the parking lot at Pastoruri Glacier at 10:30 am. The lot is at
4,700 meters; from there you walk…or…you can ride a horse. We paid 15 Soles to
ride up to 4,900 m just for the fun of it. Humans and not horses continued
higher from there. The concrete path from there had steps and was easy going,
except for the effects of altitude. We slowly plodded our way to the foot of
the glacier at 5,240 m (17,192 ft). This alpine ice sheet is technically no
longer a glacier because it is in a consistent state of recession.
Pastoruri Glacier at 5,240 m elevation
We bought
soup and snacks from a Quechuan speaking woman who had set up shop in the frigid
huts beside the parking lot. She gouged us a bit on the price but it still felt
good to be putting money directly in the hands of local people. The horses had
been a bargain. The ride westward to the paved highway outside the park was
equally thrilling. It was rough and we took it slowly.
Rock formations within the park:
Along the
way, we had the great fortune to see some Puya Raimondi plants in the Carpa
Valley. They look like mutated giant cacti. They are actually the largest
member of the bromeliad family (a relative of the pineapple) and can only be
found in a few isolated places in the Andes. They live in a very narrow
altitude band and require specific soil and climate conditions. The same forces
that are causing the eventual destruction of the Pastoruri Glacier are at play
with the Puya Raimondi. It is estimated that they will continue to exist in the
park for 20 to 30 more years. They may disappear after that as the climate in
that part of the park continues to change.
Riding inside the park:
Outside
the park the paved road wound through the Rio Santa valley northward for 30 km
toward the small city of Huaraz. We found a great hostel, “Hatun Wasi” at a
great price. It is clean and wide open with indoor parking, a kitchen, a free
breakfast and three large common areas. We are very comfortable here and are
just a 10-minute walk from the action around the Plaza de Armas in this
climbing and trekking hub.
Puya Raimondi plants in the Carpa Valley:
The
altitude here is 3,000 m and people typically spend a few days getting
acclimatized before heading into the park for their adventures. The park boasts
more than 40 peaks above 6,000 m and mountaineers come from all over the world
to climb in the second highest mountain range, next to the Himalayas.
Day 154 –
156
During
these few days we researched, signed up and waited for a fully supported
four-day “Santa Cruz Trek”. There would be a group of eight trekkers, a mountain
guide and a donkey driver. He would also handle the emergency evacuation horse.
Camping gear, kitchen and dining tents, along with our luggage would be carried
by the donkeys. We would only need to carry a day pack with rain suits, water
and snacks. It was very exciting, it was our reason for coming to Huaraz.
Park scene
We got to
know Huaraz a little as we waited. The market area is huge for a such a small
city. It occupies numerous blocks, north and eastward. Visiting it occupied a
big piece of one day. Each street is themed; for example, carnecerias
(butchers) with chickens, sides of beef and pig halves hanging in display for
passers by. Clothing repair establishments agglomerate as do hairdressers and cell
phone vendors. Indigenous street vendors claim a piece of sidewalk and spread
out their herbs, vegetables or woven products.
Park scene
Huaraz is
an eventful place by day, even more busy in the evenings. It has a population
of 120,000 and lies in a broad valley cut by the Santa River. The valley
separates two parallel mountain ranges that are over two hundred kilomoeters
long, the Cordilleras Negra and Blanca. There is evidence of human activity in
the region dating back 10,000 years to the time of the Chavin culture. Recuay,
Wari and Inca cultures were followed by the Spanish conquests. In 1970, 90% of
the city was destroyed by an earthquake and the resulting landslides. The
city’s water reservoir ruptured and flash flooded the northern end of the city.
25,000 people lost their lives. In 1996 a new Barrik Gold (Canadian) mine
brought many jobs. Tourism, trekking and climbing are also major sources of
revenue.
Park scene
Parque
Nacional Huascaran is a UNESCO Nature World Heritage Site and Mount Huascaran
is the highest mountain in the tropics. The park protects a large area of the
Cordillera Blanca.
Cordillera
Negra, on the west side of the valley, is extremely dry. The lack of
precipitation on this high mountain range results in no accumulation of snow or
alpine glaciers, hence the name Negra. Cordillera Blanca faces the Amazon basin
to the east. It is bombarded with humid eastern winds that are driven upwards
by the towering giants. The humid air cools and drops its load of moisture in
the form of rain on the eastern slopes of Cordillera Blanca and as snow on the
mountain tops.
Day
157-160 Santa Cruz Trek
The 4X4
passenger van picked us up from the hotel at 6 am and we headed down the Santa
valley towards the town of Yungay. Here we turned east, into the park. A
twisting and rough mountain road brought us up and up to Vaqueria, in the Rio
Huarapampa valley. We hiked for five hours further up the steep valley to the
Paria campsite at 3850 m elevation. We were all quite tired when we arrived but
were reassured in the knowledge that it had been a strengthening day for each
of us.
Lago Llanganuco, as seen on the drive into the park
Our group
was comprised of Lena (German), Thea (Singaporean), Niv (Isreali), Katy
(Peruvian), Laura (Australian) and Nick (Australian) plus two more seasoned Canadians.
Our guide was named Janina and our donkey driver, Senor Lucio. Our little band
of trekkers was very youthful with two notable exceptions. Those two managed to
keep up with the young bloods rather well on the trails. Their secret? – live
high up in the mountains for three months before attempting such foolishness!
Two fresh faces ready to start
Senor Lucio and his "burros"
Our crew, Senor Lucio and Janina ready the horse
The next
day we rose with the sun and ate a spartan breakfast of coffee and two small
buns with jam. After each of us was issued our bagged lunch we set of for
higher places. Our hike began with four hours of tough ascent to Punta Union
pass, at 4,750 m elevation. On the way, we looked across at snow-capped
Chacraraiu (6,096 m) and Piramide (5,800 m). The trail was well built and the
stone staircases relatively easy to climb. It was the thin air that took its
toll. Heavy feet slowly carried white faces displaying traces of discouragement
and fatigue up and over the pass. There was much joy and picture taking at the
summit of the trail.
Climbing higher
We
entered the Santa Cruz watershed and began our three-hour descent. We made camp
in an open plain at 4,200 m. Dinner was hot and nourishing. We were in bed
before 8 and snoring soon after.
Sure-footed beasts
The next
day we were up again at dawn, ate the same spartan breakfast and hit the trail.
The bagged lunches were pretty good, at least. We hiked downward for six hours
on loose surfaces. The lack of traction was tiring and we were quite fatigued
when we reached our campsite after Ichiccocha Lake, at 3,400 m. Senior Lucio
packed and prepared the animals each morning after we left. He passed us two
hours later, encouraging the animals forward. He was unbelievably quick. Only
Nick, the running rock hopper was quicker.
Made it!
Most of
the others did the optional hike of another hour and a half each way to see a
nearby lake but Isabelle and I had a well earned snooze in the relative warmth
of the afternoon at lower elevation. During that time, Senior Lucio got busy
with his fishing rod. We all ate crispy trout with our dinner that night. Thank
you, Senor Lucio!
Looking down the Santa Cruz valley
The next
morning, our spartan breakfast was improved with the addition of a hard-boiled
egg. We hiked the final two hours to Cachapampa village where we ate our bagged
lunch. It was still good. Our van took us down the windy, death plunge lined
mountain road to the village of Caraz, in the Santa valley. We took the paved
road from there for three hours back to Huaraz.
A cathedral, complete with Romanesque buttresses!
It had
been a great four days filled with personal challenges, rapid gains in strength
and endurance and fun interactions with quick minded, able bodied young people.
Mostly though it was the wonderful, unspoiled scenery that is only accessible
on foot that impressed us.
Lunchspot
Second night
Alpine lake scene
Sure footed, even descending over loose ground
Rio Santa Cruz
Tributary to Rio Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz valley
First sighting of civilization in four days
Day 161
Canon del Pato and the rest of the Santa River Valley
Isabelle
came down with the rotten cold I was just getting over. It began for her on the
last day of the hike. She decided to take a couple of bed-rest days and
encouraged me to ride through Canon Del Pato and along the Santa canyon by
myself. It would take two days.
Canon del Pato (Duck Canyon)
Huaraz
sits on the upper Rio Santa, between the parallel cordilleras Blanca and Negro.
Run-off from Cordillera Blanca feeds the Santa River. Canon del Pato was cut by
the Santa River where the two cordilleras meet, about 80 kilometers north of
Huaraz. These waters then turn left and flow down 2,500 m over 120 more kilometers
to the important food growing region of the Santa Delta. The broad lowlands of
the delta are far enough inland to escape the frigid winds coming off the
Pacific and to provide excellent growing conditions.
Santa River tributary, rode through spray and stream before photo
Expanses
of crops, planted 12 months a year, characterize the huge inland delta that is
surrounded by desert. Intricate aqueduct systems ensure that each drop of water
from the Santa is used effectively. Rio Santa is also a provider of
hydro-electric power. Steep canyon walls provide excellent dam locations and
massively reduce the resultant flooding. Penstocks bored through the rock walls
bring high pressure water to the turbines far below. There is evidence of
mining activity, past and present, throughout the valley. Numerous “ghost towns”
can be seen on the northern bank. The railway that supplied them was abandoned
long ago.
Ghost town, one of many after the railway disappeared
Strong
winds racing inland from the Pacific characterize the Santa valley upstream of
the delta. The steep and narrow canyon walls focus the air coming in from the
wide delta and create a “venturi effect” of fast moving compressed air within
them. The motorcycle was pushed left and right on the narrow and rugged road.
Thin bailey bridges were completely exposed to the gusting cross-winds that
pushed the bike in waves toward the steelwork at the sides.
Irrigation on the delta: note the rice fields backed by non-irrigated, natural desert.
It was an
interesting and exciting ride. The almost deserted road was single lane, rugged
and slow. The harsh beauty of the bone-dry canyon was contrasted by the
tumbling and frothing of life giving water at its base.
Day 162
Santa and back to Huaraz
The town
of Santa sits on the delta of the river of the same name, near the Pacific
Ocean. The Pan-American highway runs north/south through town. A neat and clean
Plaza de Armas is surrounded by tidy streets with modern buildings. Hip looking
people in t-shirts, shorts and sandals scurry about or dally with youngsters in
tow. A solid middle class was evident.
Riding
south along the Pan American was quick and fun. The bike hasn’t used the teeth
of sixth gear in many weeks. Rocketing along through the dunes that are
sometimes hundreds of meters high and zipping around slow-moving trucks was exhilarating.
It wasn’t long before I reached the left turn onto “highway” 14, up the Rio
Sechin delta.
The road
was rough from the start, third gear territory at best. This got worse and
turned into 25 kilometers of unmarked, unmanned and ragged construction
(destruction?) detours. It was as if the gravel loops around obstacles were now
permanent parts of the road. Conditions were easy for the bike and now I was
zipping past the occasional slow-moving car. There were no trucks, buses or
much of anything on this arid, four-wheeled vehicle unfriendly stretch., not a
building in sight.
Inca trail into the Santa valley
The road
became good just as the climb began, nearly 5,000 meters to the top of
Cordillera Negra. What a twisty and fun ride punctuated by Quechuan farming
villages it was, past the tree line and up to the frigid highlands! The viewpoint
above the Santa valley, that lay 2,000 m below, revealed a stunning expanse featuring
Huaraz city framed from behind by Cordillera Blanca.
Cordillera Blanca as backdrop to Huaraz City in the Santa valley
I
ventured off the road for the photo above. The rapid climb to great heights had
caused my 1.5L Nalgene water bottle to blow its lid inside the panier. Clean up
was a small price to pay for two days of excellent riding in Peru!
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