Day 30 Esteli, Nicaragua
The border was just one hour away. We arrived at 9 and there was already
a huge line-up of tractor trailers lasting a couple of kilometers. Motos have
been waved on at every border and they filter past the trucks to the actual
border offices. The truck drivers, some with their own shotgun guards, are
often out of their trucks socializing while they wait, who knows for how long?
Time is money to them but border crossings must somehow be worth it for there
to be so many drivers waiting.
“Helpers” aka “fixers” work for
tips and we had heard and read some negative stories about them. They typically
begin the encounter with an approaching tourist by rapidly listing the
documents and steps one must take to pass the border. The hope is that you will
engage their services to avoid confusing detail. They also promise that you
will go to the head of each line. Beware though, hand over your documents to
them at your own risk!
The helpers didn’t waste a second, hitting on us before our engines were
stopped. The one that stuck himself to me was asking in an official tone for my
passport as I turned off the engine. He had gestured to where I could park as
we pulled up to migracion to check out of Honduras. The uniformed police and
people behind the wicket would get to see our passports, and no one else. After
removing my gloves and helmet I politely thanked him and said in Spanish that I
wouldn’t need help. He persisted but fairly quickly accepted things after I
politely declined a few more times.
Hostel in Nicaragua
Our Spanish abilities were rudimentary at best but when combined with
hand gestures and lots of smiles they served to get us through the
business of numerous border crossings without a hitch. We developed a method. I
did security on the bikes and chatted with the truck drivers. They have a lot to
teach you. Isabelle did the business at the wickets. I parked the bikes as close
as possible to each office to keep an eye on them and to stay available if Isabelle
needed me to sign something. You can park a moto almost anywhere.
Each of the wickets/stations tells you where to go next so you never are
confused. This crossing was typical:
- - First came migracion to cancel the tourist card you get coming into Honduras.
This process is usually not too complicated but one time we waited in line for
2 ½ hours before getting to the wicket.
- - Then came aduana to cancel the Temporary Vehicle Import Permit. The
process here begins with a physical inspection of your vehicle and verifying
the VIN by an official in the parking area. The form he generates goes to the
wicket and sometimes must be copied first, at another office and for a fee.
- - Fumigation of the vehicle was next (you have to pay for it and
get a form) but sometimes it is not required.
- - Migracion for the country you are entering came next. This wicket can take
a long time and sometimes the line to get the wicket is long. Computer checks
of passports and the taking of electronic fingerprints to check against data
bases are a few of the things that go on here.
S Somewhere in all of this you get a tourist card for the new country. The officials often ask how long you plan to stay in the country. We began our border crossings giving numbers like 3 or 4 days and then realized that they were going to give us a tourist card for just those days. They also wanted an address for where you we planned to stay in the new country. We came to each crossing equipped with at least a hotel address taken from the internet. We also asked for 90 days on the tourist card automatically in case we got sick or had a mechanical breakdown. We heard and read nightmare stories about the time it can take getting parts, as told in some of the travelers’ blogs.
S Somewhere in all of this you get a tourist card for the new country. The officials often ask how long you plan to stay in the country. We began our border crossings giving numbers like 3 or 4 days and then realized that they were going to give us a tourist card for just those days. They also wanted an address for where you we planned to stay in the new country. We came to each crossing equipped with at least a hotel address taken from the internet. We also asked for 90 days on the tourist card automatically in case we got sick or had a mechanical breakdown. We heard and read nightmare stories about the time it can take getting parts, as told in some of the travelers’ blogs.
- Aduana was next and this is where you get the Temporary Vehicle Import
Permit for thew new country. It almost always starts with a physical inspection
of the vehicle and leads to both photocopies and paying fees. Sometimes Aduana
requires you to get insurance before going to their wicket (e.g. Nicaragua to
Costa Rica) sometimes after (e.g. Honduras to Nicaragua), sometimes not at all
(e.g. Mexico to Guatemala, Guatemala to Honduras).
-
There is normally a last document check after you drive up to that lift gate. When it finally lifts up your spirits go up with it! The Honduras to Nicaragua crossing took an average 3 ½ hours.
There is normally a last document check after you drive up to that lift gate. When it finally lifts up your spirits go up with it! The Honduras to Nicaragua crossing took an average 3 ½ hours.
We rode away from the lift gate and onto a really great road surface
that we shared with polite and respectful drivers. Speed limits are low in
Nicaraugua, 60 kph on a highway is normal. People follow the limits. We rode
only 150 km today because of the slow speed and time spent at the border. We
found a nice hostel in Esteli, Nicaragua for $11 CDN per person. We have the
use of the kitchen and wifi and the place is very clean. It’s fun to chat with
other travelers for a change.
Our meals on the road today were in two different “comedors”. We had the
fixed but full menu desayuno (breakfast) and almuerzo (lunch) for about $6
each. Nicaragua is much cleaner with no garbage at the side of the road. People
seem more relaxed and prosperous. We rode through a huge wind farm in the south
of the country.
Day 31 Rivas, Nicaragua
The hostel was great but the roof leaked onto the bunk above Isabelle
during the standard thunderstorms during the night. We made breakfast, packed
and got away by 9am. We rode through beautiful countryside full of rich looking
soils, healthy looking crops and mostly happy looking people. We stopped about
an hour before the Costa Rican border at a small hotel with a locked courtyard
for the motos. There were numerous, far too many to count, honks of joy throughout
the day at the sight of our loaded down motos. People seemed genuinely happy to
see tourists. We stick out as “gringos” and there is no hiding that.
Day 33 Costa Rica Crossing
AirBnB, first nigt in Costa Rica
We woke up with the sun at 5:15, made breakfast in the courtyard on our
stove and got away at 7 – a new record - arriving at the Costa Rican border at
8 and finishing the whole process at 11. The helpers were numerous and only
mildly persistent. They quickly understood this wasn’t our first rodeo and they
left us alone. It’s a busy crossing with kilometers of trucks lined up. We
filtered to the offices right away and didn’t have to stand in line too long at
each one. Border costs amounted to $74 US for both of us. There was only one
grumpy border official. He was at CR Aduana.
Caracoles Bridge, Costa Rica
Below Caracoles Bridge
We arrived safely in Costa Rica. The "dangerous"
part of our voyage, if there ever really was one, was behind us. We
continually encountered friendly, helpful people. We certainly had our
"radar" on full power the whole time, especially in the crazy border
towns, but absolutely nothing negative happened to us in the
weeks that we were there.
Costa Rica was a modern (and expensive) country and the roads wee really good! I remembered
the roads as much less than good. Our standards must have changed in recent weeks. We
have the right machines for this trip. The voyage so far would
have been quite impossible on different motos. We had arranged to
stay a few days at Beverley and Butch's place in Jaco, Costa Rica. We visited
CR with them a few years ago and spent a week at their new house. We couldn't wait
to see all the improvements they made to the place. They even let us use their scooter. We were able to go into town (groceries, beach,
dinners) without being conspicuous on our huge motos.
Day 34 Casa Beverley and
Butch
Chez Beverley and Butch
We woke up at 5 to the joyous din of tropical birds at last night’s
country house Airb&b. A three-hour ride on pristine roads through beautiful
rural Costa Rica brought us to Casa Beverley and Butch but not before a stop at
the Tarcoles bridge to see the croc’s in the river below. Their house is even more beautiful than when we
visited four years ago, the renovations really add to the place. The new
bathroom is large and luxurious, the kitchen is ergonomic and perfectly in
“Tico” style, the new gate is very fetching. Thanks Beverley and Butch, we’ll
really enjoy our few days here!
Updated kitchen
Updated Bathroom
Settling in took an hour then a short scooter ride brought us into the
beach and surfing town of Jaco, Costa Rica.
This place is jumping. Hotels, hostels, cafes and restaurants are
numerous. The world surfing championships were once held here and today the
place is teeming with surfer dudes and hippies. It’s a fun atmosphere.
Susie, their Costa Rican pup
We shopped in the local market and in the air-conditioned grocery store.
We spend the rest of the afternoon and evening relaxing, video conferencing
with family and working on the blog. Tomorrow we hit the beach!
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